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How do you specifically make patterns for different sizes like: ( small, medium, large, and etc )?
I know how to sew using measurements of other people, but other websites make professional sizes that sometimes fit, I want to be able to make the specific sizes so then I can do a better job of actually making the clothes for other people.
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Moataz’s Answer
Creating patterns for different sizes involves understanding the principles of grading, which is the process of increasing or decreasing the size of a pattern while maintaining its shape and proportions. Here’s a step-by-step guide to help you create patterns for various sizes:
1. Understand Basic Pattern Making:
- Start by learning how to draft a basic pattern using specific body measurements. This includes creating slopers (basic patterns) for bodices, skirts, pants, and sleeves.
2. Learn the Basics of Grading:
- Grading involves systematically increasing or decreasing the dimensions of a pattern to create different sizes. This can be done manually or using pattern grading software.
3. Use Standard Size Charts:
- Refer to standard size charts to understand the measurements for different sizes. These charts typically provide measurements for bust, waist, hip, shoulder width, and length for sizes like small, medium, large, etc.
4. Pattern Grading Methods:
- Manual Grading:
1. Mark Key Points: Identify key points on your pattern such as bust point, waistline, hip line, armhole, neckline, and hemline.
2. Create Grading Rules: Determine how much you need to increase or decrease the measurements for each size. For example, the difference between small and medium might be 1 inch at the bust, 0.5 inches at the waist, and 1 inch at the hip.
3. Shift Points: Using the grading rules, shift the key points outward or inward to create larger or smaller sizes.
4. Redraw Lines: Connect the shifted points to redraw the pattern lines smoothly.
- Using Grading Software:
- Software like Adobe Illustrator with plugins, Optitex, or Lectra can automate the grading process. You input the base size pattern and the grading increments, and the software generates the different sizes.
5. Check and Adjust:
- After grading the pattern, it’s essential to check the fit of each size by creating sample garments. Make adjustments as needed to ensure a good fit.
6. Create a Size Range:
- Start with a base size (often medium) and grade up and down to create the full size range. For example, if medium is your base size, you can grade up to large and extra-large and down to small and extra-small.
7. Maintain Proportions:
- Ensure that all elements of the garment (e.g., darts, seams, hems) maintain their proportions and positions relative to the new sizes.
8. Document Your Process:
- Keep detailed records of your grading increments and methods. This documentation will be useful for future projects and for ensuring consistency across different garments.
Resources for Learning:
- Books :Patternmaking for Fashion Design" by Helen Joseph Armstrong, "Metric Pattern Cutting" by Winifred Aldrich.
- Online Courses: Websites like Craftsy, Udemy, and Skill share offer courses on pattern making and grading.
- YouTube: Channels like "Made to Sew" and "Professor Pincushion" provide tutorials on pattern grading and sewing techniques.
Practical Tips:
- Use a Grading Ruler: A grading ruler or a set of French curves can help in making precise adjustments.
- *Test Fit: Always make a muslin or test garment for each new size to ensure accuracy.
- Start Simple: Begin with simpler garments before moving on to more complex designs.
- Keep Learning: Fashion and garment construction techniques are continually evolving, so keep up with new methods and tools.
By mastering the art of pattern grading, you can ensure that your custom-made clothes fit a wider range of body sizes accurately and professionally.
1. Understand Basic Pattern Making:
- Start by learning how to draft a basic pattern using specific body measurements. This includes creating slopers (basic patterns) for bodices, skirts, pants, and sleeves.
2. Learn the Basics of Grading:
- Grading involves systematically increasing or decreasing the dimensions of a pattern to create different sizes. This can be done manually or using pattern grading software.
3. Use Standard Size Charts:
- Refer to standard size charts to understand the measurements for different sizes. These charts typically provide measurements for bust, waist, hip, shoulder width, and length for sizes like small, medium, large, etc.
4. Pattern Grading Methods:
- Manual Grading:
1. Mark Key Points: Identify key points on your pattern such as bust point, waistline, hip line, armhole, neckline, and hemline.
2. Create Grading Rules: Determine how much you need to increase or decrease the measurements for each size. For example, the difference between small and medium might be 1 inch at the bust, 0.5 inches at the waist, and 1 inch at the hip.
3. Shift Points: Using the grading rules, shift the key points outward or inward to create larger or smaller sizes.
4. Redraw Lines: Connect the shifted points to redraw the pattern lines smoothly.
- Using Grading Software:
- Software like Adobe Illustrator with plugins, Optitex, or Lectra can automate the grading process. You input the base size pattern and the grading increments, and the software generates the different sizes.
5. Check and Adjust:
- After grading the pattern, it’s essential to check the fit of each size by creating sample garments. Make adjustments as needed to ensure a good fit.
6. Create a Size Range:
- Start with a base size (often medium) and grade up and down to create the full size range. For example, if medium is your base size, you can grade up to large and extra-large and down to small and extra-small.
7. Maintain Proportions:
- Ensure that all elements of the garment (e.g., darts, seams, hems) maintain their proportions and positions relative to the new sizes.
8. Document Your Process:
- Keep detailed records of your grading increments and methods. This documentation will be useful for future projects and for ensuring consistency across different garments.
Resources for Learning:
- Books :Patternmaking for Fashion Design" by Helen Joseph Armstrong, "Metric Pattern Cutting" by Winifred Aldrich.
- Online Courses: Websites like Craftsy, Udemy, and Skill share offer courses on pattern making and grading.
- YouTube: Channels like "Made to Sew" and "Professor Pincushion" provide tutorials on pattern grading and sewing techniques.
Practical Tips:
- Use a Grading Ruler: A grading ruler or a set of French curves can help in making precise adjustments.
- *Test Fit: Always make a muslin or test garment for each new size to ensure accuracy.
- Start Simple: Begin with simpler garments before moving on to more complex designs.
- Keep Learning: Fashion and garment construction techniques are continually evolving, so keep up with new methods and tools.
By mastering the art of pattern grading, you can ensure that your custom-made clothes fit a wider range of body sizes accurately and professionally.
Updated
Michelle’s Answer
Hello, Alyssa !
Yes, you are correct - patterns in our country are standard sizes and my advice is to keep working with those patterns but here's what you can do.
Perhaps, for example, a customer orders a size 8 dress. In a perfect world, everyone would be the exact standard size 8 who takes a size 8, but everyone is different in dimensions and height. I know it's an investment, but you will need to buy a dress form and work with the garment on it until it's ready enough for the customer to try it on. So, basically, you are working with the standard size, but then doing alterations after the fitting.
The instructions to create your own patterns from scratch or modify a standard pattern can be used and I have provided some links below to get you started.
Do not underestimate your sewing ability. Much of sewing is gearing the garment to a specific person and no one has the exact same dimensions. You're doing a great job. Just remember, clothing off the rack in retail stores are very often altered or adjusted by the person who needs to wear it. Remember to take the measurements of the person and have fittings for them and that's what fitting is for - to customize the fit. Keep doing what you're doing and if you're not sewing a garment for anyone in particular, leave it at the standard size and if someone buys it, do the fitting for any alterations that are needed. Your skill at alteration will take you far !
I hope that this is helpful and I wish you all the best !
EXAMPLE OF DRESS FORMS https://www.joann.com/sewing/dress-forms/
CUSTOM PATTERN MAKING https://techpacker.com/blog/design/apparel-pattern-making/
MODIFY A STANDARD PATTERN OR MAKE YOUR OWN PATTERNS https://www.clothingpatterns101.com/
PATTERNS AND BLOCKS THAT YOU CAN CUSTOMIZE https://www.sewist.com/editor/mix
MAKE YOUR OWN PATTERNS https://www.wikihow.com/Make-Your-Own-Sewing-Patterns
Yes, you are correct - patterns in our country are standard sizes and my advice is to keep working with those patterns but here's what you can do.
Perhaps, for example, a customer orders a size 8 dress. In a perfect world, everyone would be the exact standard size 8 who takes a size 8, but everyone is different in dimensions and height. I know it's an investment, but you will need to buy a dress form and work with the garment on it until it's ready enough for the customer to try it on. So, basically, you are working with the standard size, but then doing alterations after the fitting.
The instructions to create your own patterns from scratch or modify a standard pattern can be used and I have provided some links below to get you started.
Do not underestimate your sewing ability. Much of sewing is gearing the garment to a specific person and no one has the exact same dimensions. You're doing a great job. Just remember, clothing off the rack in retail stores are very often altered or adjusted by the person who needs to wear it. Remember to take the measurements of the person and have fittings for them and that's what fitting is for - to customize the fit. Keep doing what you're doing and if you're not sewing a garment for anyone in particular, leave it at the standard size and if someone buys it, do the fitting for any alterations that are needed. Your skill at alteration will take you far !
I hope that this is helpful and I wish you all the best !
Michelle recommends the following next steps:
Updated
Jennifer’s Answer
Pattern grading is a fundamental tool in the realm of fashion design, enabling designers to tailor clothes that accommodate a spectrum of body sizes. It all starts with a foundational pattern, usually of a medium size, which acts as a blueprint for scaling up or down. To cater to various sizes, designers pinpoint size increments—the degree to which each pattern piece will be magnified or minimized. Grading rules are then implemented, methodically modifying the pattern at key areas like the bust, waist, and hips to preserve the garment's balance. Comfort and fit are ensured by factoring in ease, which varies based on the garment's style and size. The final touch is to polish the pattern, making sure all pieces synchronize and fit together flawlessly. This detailed process demands practice and accuracy, but with the support of tutorials and resources, designers can conquer the craft of pattern grading, ultimately producing clothes that appeal to a wide-ranging clientele. As you set off on this exciting path, bear in mind that every pattern you grade boosts your proficiency, laying the foundation for a prosperous career in fashion design.
Advanced Design Software: Learning to use advanced design software can streamline the pattern-making process and open up new design possibilities.
Sustainability Practices: Incorporate sustainable and ethical practices into your design and production processes, which can be a unique selling point for your brand. Business Courses: Consider taking business courses or workshops focused on the fashion industry to better understand the market and develop effective strategies.
Branding: Develop a strong brand identity that reflects your culture/heritage and/or you, setting your fashion line apart in the market. Collaborations: Collaborate with other designers or influencers, especially those who share your passion for sustainability, to expand your reach.
Customer Feedback: Implement a system to gather customer feedback on sizing and fit, which can inform future designs and sizing adjustments. Fashion Shows: Participate in local or online fashion shows to showcase your designs to a broader audience.
E-commerce Platform: Set up an online store or join existing e-commerce platforms to sell your designs directly to consumers.
Jennifer recommends the following next steps: